The mojito — a classic summer cocktail with vague origins.

Public opinion indicates that the drink hails from Havana, but it is still the subject of debate whether native Cubans enjoyed the concoction of rum, sugar, lime and mint or it was instead put together by 17th-century European sailors as a means of preventing scurvy and dysentery. Equally discussed is whether a mojito should be shaken or stirred, blended or strained, bubbly or flat.

The good news is that there is no mojito police. For me, this drink means vacation, so just relax and enjoy its myriad forms.

The two star ingredients for this recipe are shiso (perilla leaf) and watermelon. Now is when salty watermelon drinks appear on store shelves and games of suikawari (cracking open a watermelon with a stick while blindfolded) are played on the beach.

While not a traditional summer treat in and of itself, shiso has long been used in Japan as a way to add flavor and prevent food from spoiling. It functions as a perfect mint substitute, and, if you like the flavor, add more than indicated. Also, don’t be afraid to swap out classic Cuban white rum for a glug of two of Okinawan Cor Cor.

Equipment:

• A way to measure things (bar jigger, measuring cup, shot glass)

• A way to mash things (muddler, handle of a rice paddle or wooden spoon)

• Strainer

• Juicer

• Shaker

Ingredients:

• 2 or 3 fresh shiso leaves

• ½ oz agave syrup

• 3 oz watermelon flesh

• ¾ oz lime juice

• 1½ oz white rum

• Ice

1. Remove the seeds from your watermelon, then finely chop or puree it in a mixer and set aside.

2. Put three fresh shiso leaves in the shaker and add the agave syrup. Gently yet tenaciously, muddle the leaves and syrup together to integrate the flavors.

3. Cut the lime in half, juice it, then add juice to the shaker.

4. Add the watermelon, rum and a handful of ice cubes (pebble ice is best — there is a lot of liquid here). Shake until the mixture inside feels uniformly cold.

5. Strain the mixture into a glass full of fresh ice, then garnish with a shiso leaf.